The tightly knit group of terroirists, that once included Didier Dagueneau, paid tribute to the master today in an elaborate tasting for the trade. Movers and shakers of the Paris wine trade indulged in consistently high quality wines and the vingerons brought along local pates and cheeses. The roster looked like this:

Philippe Alliet : AOC Chinon 


Eric Bordelet : AOC Sydre et Poiré de Normandie-Calvados 


Philippe Charlopin : AOC Gevrey-Chambertin 


Pierre-Marie et Martine Chermette : AOC Beaujolais Fleurie & Moulin à Vent 


François Chidaine : AOC Montlouis & Vouvray 


John et Véronique Cochran : AOC Côtes de Bourg 


Didier Dagueneau : AOC Blanc Fumé de Pouilly 


Pascal Delbeck : AOC Saint Emilion Grand Cru 


Paolo de Marchi : Chianti, Italie 


Eloi Dürrbach : Trevallon Vin de Pays 


Nadi et Charlie Foucault : AOC Saumur-Champigny 


Alain Gaillot : AOC Crozes-Hermitage 


Y et J.R Hegoburu : AOC Jurançon 


Christian et Marc Imbert : AOC Corse-Porte Vecchio 


Olivier Jullien : AOC Coteaux du Languedoc 


Marc Kreydenweiss : APC Alsace et Costières de Nîmes 


Alain Neyroud : Suisse 
Marc Pagès : AOC Médoc Cru Bourgeois Supérieur 


Christophe Peyrus : AOC Coteaux du Languedoc 


Robert et Bernard Plageoles : AOC Gaillac 


Jacques Puffeney : AOC Arbois 


Thérèse et Michel Riousspeyrous : AOC Irouléguy 


Jean-Marc Roulot : AOC Mersault 


Corinne et Anselme Selosse : AOC champagne 


Aldo Vajra : Barolo, Italie.

What’s not to like when you are being poured Selosse, Chidane, Dagueneau, Roulot, Graillot, etc....What struck me more was the conviviality brought by the winemakers; many brought local pates and cheeses. A huge bloc of Parmasean was at Selosse, as well as the Italian tables, Francois Chidane opened a package of andouille sausage (not my taste but I had some), and the Dagueneau’s had am amazing assortment of tete de veau, pates (organ and otherwise) and saussisons. Very hospitable and professional.

Some tasting impressions:
A Having never tasted the Selosse champagnes before the OV struck me with it’s flirtation with oxidation while the INITIALE (more dossage) was more to my taste. The Roulots were pouring 06 and the Tessons, Charmes and Perrieres were stunners. Long and vibrant. The Dageuneau’s poured Buisson Renard 06 and the 98 Pur Sang. The Buisson showed incredible precision and bite while the Pur Sang was gentle with a sneaky complex finish. The Chidane Montlouis were delicious, but I wonder how far he can take the concept of terroir in the market....can the market really distinguish between 14 different Montlouis cuvees? For the reds, I was amazed by the richness of Alliet’s Chinon. A perfect ripness and balance like these is hard to find in Loire reds. My favorite was a 07 St Joseph by Alain Graillot. Complex and precise it was all leather and ripe red fruits... good length.

Thanksgiving

On the eve before Thanksgiving it is obvious that we sit thinking about food, oh , glorious food. For me the best movie ever that focuses on food and its transcending power is: 

Babette's Feast

Enjoy this Thanksgiving

'tis the season (November tasting season)

After the harvest is done winemakers from all over France descend on Paris to push their product.  There is a wine tasting nearly every monday and three-day events starting each Friday during the month of November.  On top of the vente des vin des Hospices (Burgundy) and Beaujolais Nouveau, these tastings make November an important sales month for the domaines and for a lot of work for the trade.

Last Friday was Le Grand Tasting at Le Louvre, hosted by Bettane and Desseauve, and is one of the splashiest events of the year.   For €20 you get to drink all the great wines from France and beyond; Valandraud, Dom Perignon, great Burgundies, Ch Climens, Ch Rayas, etc.  It is also a time for the established new stars; Nicolas Rossignol of Volnay (too extracted for my taste but imported in the US by Martine's wines), Vergnon of champagne, Dom Richaud (Rhone), etc.

Monday there were two tiny (by comparison) tastings, a Montlouis then a Savoie tasting.  At SYDR (a hip and modern bar near the Arc de Triumphe) some of the best producers from the Vourvray's sister village (Montlouis) were on hand.  F Chidane and his biodynamic chenins was the most notable, among 20 or so young and dynamic producers.  A mostly trade event the movers and shakers of the industry were there to taste including Jacqueline Friedrich.

Next was the Savoie tasting at Les Fines Gueules, and tiny and progressive wine bar next to the Banque de France in the 1er arrondissement.  The bar in itself reminded me of a bar in Cambride, MA the Miracle of Science, in it's triangular shape and the wines...mondeuse, mondeuse and more mondeuse.   All organic producers and one rebellious biodynamic producer who, instead of using copper sulfate on his wines, treated them with essential oils...Here we have the true pioneers (sic) of winemaking, and with yields all under 20 ha/hl....tough way to make a living.

Later this week is the salon des Vigneron independants in Paris so stay tuned.....

Beaune 08 re-cap

Although I did not join the party at La Paulée, I felt like I tasted as much over the 4 days in Beaune.  The most remarkable were the following, in no particular order:

• 08 Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru "Les Clavoillon", Leflaive
  
• 08 Le Musigny, Drouhin
• 76 Meursault 1er cru "Poruzots", Buisson-Charles
• 05 Latricières-Chambertin, Rossignol-Trapet
• 07 Le Montrachet, Drouhin

La vie est belle.....

Sunday (16 November)

Sunday Thomas and I meet at Dom Buisson-Charles in Meursault for our rendez-vous at Dom Drouhin. The Drouhin winery is a nondescript building from the '70s w/o a sign, in the outskirts of Beaune. This is not where their receive guests, it is where they make their wine.

Patrick's buddy is the chief oenologist at Drouhin and we are his guinea pigs as he walks us through the massive winery (for burgundy standards) and the tasting of their 2008 reds and whites. Mr Thunevin has good fun playing aloof but we are all feeling very privileged. Rully blanc, Clos des Mouches (red and white), Meursault Pucelles, Chambolle les Amoureuses, Volnay Clos des Chenes, Bonne Mares, Griottes-Chambertin, Musigny, Batard-Montrachet, etc... We are standing next to 40 (!) barrels of 2008 Le Montrachet. The Musigny is true success.

Before he lets us go we finish with a handful of '07 whites. A Puligny-Montrachet, a Meursault 1er cru, and to top off the morning, the '07 Le Montrachet (still in barrel). Rich and red wine is structure (like many great white wines) with a persistent kiss of mandarin orange. 8 hours later, I'm still tasting it.....

Back at chez Buisson for lunch Patrick and his wife spoil us with their food and wines; a '95 Jobard Genevrieres and a 76 Meursault Pucelles (Buisson) start off things. A 2006 Chassagne rouge is "interesting", and "good for the vintage"but very bourgogne, while a Buisson 05 Volnay Santenots is a try at new-world pinot. Patrick pulls out the big guns with a 05 Rosignol Trapet Latriceres-Chambertin (Thunevin is finally impressed). We say or good-byes over "interesting" 97 Clos Windsbuhl and enjoy the view over the vineyards of Meursault. Spoiled indeed. Thank you Patrick!

Saturday (15 November) - Beaune

I meet up with exporter Thomas Calder. At 8:15 we are in line for the tasting of the Hospice de Beaune 08s. An hour and a half later we enter the old cellars of the Hospices.

The harvest was late this year (end sept) so the fermentations and development are a little behind schedule....whites are still fermenting and reds are all over the place...lots of sulfur or reductive notes...tasting is hard going. It's a limited tasting with only half of the cuvees. We are done in 45 min due in part to the chit chat between tasters and winery staff.

At 1:30 we go the the Beaune expo for 4 hours of rapid-fire tasting of 2008s '07s and '06s. There I meet Patrick Essa of Buisson-Charles (Meursault) and he introduces us to his '08s as well as his compatriots.....Tasting is tough going because many wines are still fermenting their sugars...good material and extraction, especially his Goutte d'Or. Delicious stuff from Sylvain Dussort and Sebatien Magnien (Meursault). The Remi Jobard and Ballot Meursault Genevrières are also of note. Patrick Essa invites us to a private tasting with his buddy at Domaine Drouhin Sunday morning and then lunch at his place, with his other friend Jean-Luc Thunevin. We can't refuse...

We move to the Gevrey-Chambertin table as the wines are self serve and we happily do a horizontal of all the Gevrey Chambertin grand crus :) Over at Puligny-Montrachet I taste a Leflaive P-M 1er cru Clavoillon (holy s*&t!)

We hit nearly all of the appelations (even the crémant de Bourgogne!) and or mouths are sore with acid and our backs tired.....but hey, somebody has to do it. At 5:30 I crawl out of the Palais de Congres.

Hospices de Beaune 2008 

Just back from Beaune and putting my feet up after 3 days of marathon tasting.  

I arrived in Chassagne-Montrachet Thursday afternoon for annual, but soon to be more frequent, visit with Laurent Pillot of Dom. F&L Pillot.  A good hour and a half going through

2007 whites and 2006 reds.  High quality and consistency in his whites for '07 with nice definition between the terroirs.  The reds are showing well too with the Pommards (Charmots and Rugiens) the stars.

Next a visit with A Chopin in Nuits St Georges, we taste 2007 barrel samples.  Arnaud is smiling at the result.  Good concentration, gently colored, and great terroir definition.

Friday a visit with Pascal Clement, winemaker at Domaine Belleville and I continue to learn more about the potential of Rully whites....a great chardonnay terroir.

The weather in Beaune is perfect, a light frost friday morning but the skies are crystal blue and at night the stars are shining.  The wonderful smell of fall (decaying leaves, crisp air, and fires burning) stirs the soul.

Vacation in Flanders...

The school vacation corresponded to an out-of-town consulting gig for my wife so we all drove up to our old town of Geel.  I took the trip as an opportunity to revel in some delicious beers (Westmalle tripel) and classic Belgian dishes like moules-frites. 

As for some wine....I recently started representing Domaine Fernand et Laurent Pillot, of Chassagne-Montrachet, to the trade in Paris so I took the opportunity to show off their wines to my wine-loving friends in Belgium.  Today we had a 2002 Puligny-Montrachet "Noyers-Brets".  A crystaline deep yellow color with a steely nose of apple, vanilla, and apricots.  Creamy yet focused with lively acidity, this is drinking at its peak at 6 years of age (6 years already!?  My kids are 6??  Egad.)   

Le Noyer Bret is designated vineyard in Puligny but classified as a villages wine.  It lies down hill from the grand cru vineyard Batard-Montrachet.  The wine shows a nice contrast between the more steely style of Puligny Montrachet and the rounder wines from Chassagne.  An honest value as it sells for around 20€ a bottle. 

Royal with Cheese (Q Tarentino).

As in the movie, and in the twilight of our stay in Belgium, it's the little difference between here and the US that make for good storytelling.  

I am currently reading A Year in the Merde, and in the later chapters the author describes the French healthcare system,  which will be ours later this summer.  I'd say we are better prepared than most Americans as we have lived in a similar system here in Belgium.  

Today for example, I took my son to the Dr to check a bad cut on his toe. As with all generalists, there is only a waiting room; no receptionists. While waiting you wonder if there is a line or how the Dr knows who comes next without the assistance of a secretary; what if he is behind schedule?  He  eventually opens the door and invites in the next patient.   Once inside you are welcomed into an office/examination room.  No claustrophobic, sterile rooms with syringes and exam lights hanging around.

But the best part is AFTER the exam (after the cut is all bandaged up).  This is when he writes up the bill and demands payment on the spot.  No credit cards accepted, only cash.  (A typical visit will cost you 20.60€)  And when you pay, he gives you any change (dimes and all) out of his wallet (!)  Believe me it's kind of uncomfortable if you don't have any change on you because you are probably the 10th consecutive patient to give him a 50€ note to cover the charge.  It is surreal when compared to the administration observed in the HMO-run US.  Oh, and for the insurance you get more than 50% back if you remember to send the bill to the insurance co..

This is the texture around the dinners and wines shared with friends. A beautiful bottle was opened last weekend, a 1998 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Grandes Ruchottes" (Dom. Ramonet).   A delicious and complete "petit Montrachet".  Full bodied yet light on its feet and a wine that evolved over the course of 3-4 hours into a completely mature white burgundy.

Sante!

Another reason to drink more?  I didn't need any but ok!

NY Times

Terroir???

Seems to be mostly due to physical properties and heat and water retention of soil, rather than chemical composition.

Listen to a very interesting conversation on grape radio

Ahhh, a day late but well worth it. Stepping back in time I opened a cherrished bottle of 1996 Meursault-Blangy (1er cru), Dom Francois Jobard. Mature, and golden in color, glistening. In the nose hard to describe but like a classic parfum, beguiling yet complemented with nuts, honey and chalk. The taste was just as hard to get a grips with but it expanded in the mouth, medium-dry with a beautiful acidity keeping it fresh but not tart, and a very long aftertaste. Nuts, butter, citrus fruits. Complex and well-aged bourgogne blanc. Happy birthday to me!

Easter in Alsace
Over the Easter weekend we traveled to Holtzheim, a small village 15 min west of Strasbourg, France. LOTS of outdoor activities were planned, including easter egg hunts and family fun in the vineyards of Alsace....Unfortunately, the family time in the vineyards was not to be as the weather turned cold and it snowed. Dad DID get a chance to take a day with another wine lover along the wine route, however...

Holtzheim is in the Bas-Rhin, or lower Rhine. Lower, because it’s near the end of the river, not because it’s the northern part of the river. As for wine growing the Bas-Rhin has been the underachieving part of Alsace but because of this reputation you can find some good bargain in the great Reislings, Gewurtztraminers and Pinot Blancs of Alsace.

Almost due west of Holtzheim is Molsheim, the first town we checked out for producers. Molshiem, is famous for cars as well. It’s the home of Bugatti, and you can tour the factory that today make the world’s fastest and most expensive production car, the Veyron....

My friend tried to find Domaine Klingenfus, as he had had good luck with this small domain and their 2005 Gewurtz grand cru bruderthal received one star in the 2008 Guide Hachette. But no luck. We instead knocked on the door of Dom. G. Neumeyer. A lovely surprise as his 2007 riesling was alive and fresh with good ripeness (€7). The grand cru brunderthal Riesling and gewurtz were also lovely (€15).

It was a luck guess, because not only were his wines the best we tasted all day but he gave us free passes to the Wine expo in Paris this weekend; and it just so happened that I planned on going. See you in Paris Mr Neumeyer!

Tasting with the Belgians part 3

Reds (part 2)

...continuing with the Languedoc...

1. Wine 20:  Deep purple, stinky and woody in the nose, and so much structure in the mouth I thought it was never going to leave.  Overpowered.  Some thought it ws young with potention for aging, I didn't.  2005 Ch. La Liquiere (AOC Faugeres) "Tucade".  70% Mouvedre and 30% syrah.
2. Wine 21: Red purple color with mint, oak, and sappy fruit. Wonderful balance on the palate with soft tannins. "A Parker wine", was one comment heard at the table. I don't know but this "Dans la Peau", 90% syrah, 10% grenache (AOC Faugeres) from Les Amants de la Vigneronne was outstanding. 35€.  I'm a big fan of what they do.

On to the Roussillon...

1. Wine 22 was a saturated purple-blue, with an inky oily and blueberry nose.  Stone.  Very carignan (reminded me of Roc des Anges) in its unique sweet and sappy style.  2005 Eternelles "Elsa"  (grenache/carignan blend).
   
2. Wine 23:  Purple blue (again), with stinky blueberry and spicy nose.  Super rich in the mouth but with a fresh acidity.  Inky and palate staining, with a rich and sappy finish.  2005 "Ascencio" (aoc Cotes de Roussillon) from Domaine Singla.  100% syrah and delicious for 15€.
3. Wine 24:  Red purple robe with mushroomy nose.  Bitter blackberry and cherry, tar andtannins on the palate..  The finish was medium short with tannins.  A complex and mouth-watering blend of grenache, carignan, and syrah.  2005 "La Pinede" Domaine Singla (AOC Cotes de Roussillon)  11€
4. Wine 25:  Red-purple robe.  Spices, blackberry, volatile and perfumed on the nose.  Young and tight in the mouth and finish but the nose was amazing.  100% Grenache 2005 "Passe Temps"(vin de pays des cotes de catalans) Domaine Singla.  11€.  Amazing quality for the price.  I was bowled over with the QPR of these last three wines.
5. Wine 26:  Blue-purple, with an intense nose of blackberry, medicine and oak.  Cool and minty in the mouth, with flowers, cream, tar and blueberries. Pepper with sweet tannins.  Pepper dominates the medium long finish.  A tad volatile.  Another stellar wine:  2005 "El Moli" (vin de pays des cotes catalanes) Domaine Singla.  13€
6. Wine 27:  Inky black color with mushroom and oaky nose.  Power and class in the mouth with red earth but very closed.  Yup, 2005 "La Crinyane" (aoc Cote du Rousillon) Domaine Singla.  17€.  Amazing quality at this price level.
7. We finished with two more wines but I was too distracted by the Dom Singla.  Time for a visit the the Roussillon

Tasting with the Belgians (part 2)

The Reds (part 1):

After  the whites we moved on to 30 different reds from the Languedoc-Rousillon.  As with the whites, they were served single-blind, going from lighter in style to heavier.  Leading off were two wines made by carbonic maceration, a technique that promotes primary fruit flavors and was popularized in Beaujolais. (I'll save the details for another time.)  

1. Wine three from Domaine Mas des Agrunelles (seen earlier with a delicious white), this time their 100% carignan from 50 year-old vines, "La Carino" (I did not get the appelation but it might well have been a vin de pays).  Super saturated blue/purple color.  Leather and coffee (along with a bit of funk).  Acidic and tannic with as short finish.  Young and simple but good with saussicon sec.  A bistrot wine for sure (about 5€).  (The wines were going fast and I didn't get all the names..only those that I really liked for quality and price)  
2. Wine seven then stuck out (in a good way).  From Puech Auger, their "Les Faisses de Jean" a blend of syrah, mouvedre and grenache (AOC Coteaux de Languedoc), a barrel sample, was purple-ruby in color, very ripe with tar, mint, smoke and red fruit flavors.  A closed in finish was not surprising considering it still needs time before bottling.    A fair price at 8.5€.
   
3. Wine eight was faulty, nine was dull, then 11 got interesting again...  Domaine Mas des Agrunelles,...again!  "Carmin," their blend of syrah grenache, carignan and cabernet sauvignon for 10.5€.  Red purple color with an expressive black fruit nose.  Ripe black fruit on the palate with sweet round tannins for the finish.  One of my favorites of the night.  
4. Wine 12 was pleasing, a Faugeres (AOC) by Ch. La Liquiere.  Good stink in the nose (dirt, mushrooms, decaying matter) with a cool and minty finish.  
5. Wine 13, 2006 Valjulius, was a hit with the table in general (but I was slow to come around).  Made of syrah, grenach and cab sauv., deep ruby color with wood, red fruit, spice and cheese rind on the nose.  Spicy wood, tar blueberries and medium bodied in the mouth, it showed its tannins on the finish.  Too woody I thought, but definitely stylish.
   
6. Wine 14, 2004 Puech Auger (AOC Montepeyroux) syrah grenache mouvedre and carignan (oak aged) deepr ruby with a "classic" southern French volatile nose, pure and sappy on the palate, raspberry, with a sappy finish.  Poised. Around 12€
7. Wine 15 was a head turner.  Dom. Les Amants de la vigneronne, " Le Rouge aux Levres" (AOC Faugeres) like Mas des Agrunelles, these guys are spending more time on their wines than on their web site.   Dull purple but ripe blackberry, smoke and mint on the nose.  Ripe and spicy but medium bodied (a bit thin??), with a spicy, smoky, nutty and blueberry finish.  As you will see, I liked several of their cuvees...So did the Guide Hachette (2008) and they gave their "De chair et de sang" 2005 one star.
8. Wine 19, 2003 Mas de Perry, (AOC Coteaux de Languedoc) from the winemaker of Mas des Agrunelles (crazy how this blind tasting showed my consistency).  Only 1,000 bottles produced of this syrah mouvedre blend (22€).  Deep ruby color with dirty blueberries on the nose.  Tight and intense blueberries on the palate too.  A super Languedoc.
9. Wine 20 was overdone.  Ch La Liquiere "Tucade" (AOC Faugeres) was stinky and woody with WAYYY too much structure for too little fruit.  27€
10. to be continued....

Tasting with the Belgians

Languedoc-Rousillon tasting at the Kempisch Wijnhuis:

The whites

Lutgard and her husband gathered about 10 of her best customers to help them evaluate "a few" of their latest finds discovered at this year's Vini Sud in Montpellier, France.  

All wines were served single-blind and most of the discussion was in Flemmish, but I soldiered on!  Ik spreek een weinig nederlands!

We started with a lemony and acidic Cava that didn;t leave many impressed but quickly moved on to the 13 whites.  Whites from the Languedoc (and southern France in general) are typically made from grenache blanc, rousanne, marsanne and clairette with chardonnay and sauvignon-blanc playing lesser roles in this region; it's just too hot down there for these very popular grapes.  The styles fall in two catagories, heavy and a bit bitter-sweet and very dry light and acidic.  Most ofthese wines had very little color.  Only the odd barrel-aged chardonnay showed much color.

One of the favorite  whites was from Domaine de la Bouysse (vin de pays d'Oc) made of grenache blanc and macabeo for 5€.  Very pale green in color that was very aromatic (lychee, clove, and resin) and medium bodied with fresh spicy pineapple flavors.  The finish was delicious fresh, long and spicy.  For 5€ a bottle this is one for to stock up on for the summer.  

An example of a sauv-blanc/chardonnay blend came from Domaine Gourgazaud.:  "Gourgazaud jr" (vins de pays, Minervois)For 6€ the color was a pale yellow, with a muted nose, golden raisins and low acid in the mouth.  Uinteresting.  Their normal 100% chardonnay was a bit better with a nose of lime and flavors of bitter almond, it wasn't bad but not your typical chardonnay...I'll stick to Burgundy, thanks.

A stunning white came from the rather well-known Chateau La Liquiere (A.O.C. Faugeres).  "Les Amandiers." 

 Made of rousanne, grenache blanc and clairette, it was pale green (crystal clear)  and had a beautiful yet delicate nose of flowers and stone.  In the mouth it was lime, almond with refreshing acidity and balance.   A medium-light bodied wine that was extremely pretty to smell and a joy to drink.  9€  (great web site too!)

The Chateau La Liquiere "Cistus" blanc was also delicious and more refined. Made of Rousanne and grenache blanc, the color was brilliant and deeper (yellow straw) and the nose was restrained but concentrated lime/apple notes.  The taste was complex and intense with a lovely fresh acidity to keep it in balance.   The chateau is well distribbuted in the US and i've seen it in Mass as well.

Another favorite  was from domaine Mas des Agrunelles, and their "Fleur Blanche" (A.O.C Cot. de Languedoc) 

A newcomer, indeed, they started in 2000, but not without the right mindset: to produce at low quantity but high quality.  The result of their dedication is to have their wines listed at two 3-star restaurants Jardin des Sens and Michel Bras as well as the newly opened Alain Ducasse "Dorchester" restaurant in London.  Their organic vineyard techniques and natural practices in the cellar are paving the way.... Again, a pale-yellow color, here the nose is of delicate flowers and almond.  In the mouth it's big and rich with lime, apricots and chalk.    It finishes round with limy chalky flavors.  Lip smacking delicious.

On to the reds....

I'm off tonight to an industry only tasting in Belgium, in support of my favorite little wine store in Flanders: the Kempisch Wijnhuis. The owner asked me to help her go through 50+ wines she wants to consider for her catalog. I hope I find some stars to bring back to my customers in Mass. I'll post the report tomorrow.

2005 Burgundy...more good press

I mentioned in a recent newsletter that 2005 Burgundy was an acclaimed vintage.  A vintage to buy, cellar and drink.   It seems that the Wall Street Journal is the latest to heap praise on it.  Their article in the 7 March 2008 Weekend Edition tasted 2005 wines from the famous (and expensive) villages of Gevrey-Chambertin and Volnay.  Large and small producers were represented and the high quality could be seen across villages and producers.  Me too, I would love to drink all of the wines they tasted, but not one of them was under $37.  For high quality Burgundy and a more palatable price, remember the quality producers of the Cote Chalonnaise.  Like Domaie Ragot, from Givry, that I profiled in a video on this blog and a photo essay on monkscellar.com.  The wines are pure and well structured and provide more pleasure for your buck, and are under $30.  At a time when the buck keeps falling in value, we need the likes of the Cote Challonaise to help with our Burgundy habit!  Wanna find some??  Call Bottle N Cork in Grafton, MA.  They have the 1er Cru "Les Bergers"

Monks Cellar wine tasting.

On the Friday, 29 Feb. at Bottle N Cork in  Grafton, MA, Monks Cellar hosted a wine tasting of the "utterly distinctive wines" of Vineyard Research Imports.  David Raines, founder, poured for about 35 people who came for the tasting.  Among the wines were two recently profiled on Monks Cellar:  Domaine Belleville (Rully) and Domaine Ragot (Givry)

Those in attendance took home a copy of a winemaker recipe that you can find on this blog here.

 

Thanks to Vineyard Research and Bottle N Cork for coming together for this tasting.  And thanks to all the wine lovers who made the trip.  I hope you enjoyed it.

Monks Cellar hopes to  bring you more exciting wines, like those of Vineyard Research, and plans more tastings across MA with different retailers.  Stay tuned to this space so you'll be the first to know!

A thought on serving temperatures for wine.  Yesterday I opened a 2005 Domaine Belleville Rully 1er Cru "Les Cloux" straight out of the fridge.  It was too cold and the true pleasure of this wine was hidden by the low temperature.  

Wine flavors are made up of volatile compounds and these chemical compound can be kept in check at low temperatures.  As the temperature of the wine rises more and more of these volatile compounds are released thus broadening the olfactory and gustatory experience of the wine.  When this wine was cold, it was green apple, with a touch of clove and the finish was short.  After an hour sitting at room temperature it turned into pure pleasure;  butter, Moroccan spices and rhubarb in the nose, with a viscous palate presence that expanded in the mouth finishing with crisp cleansing acidity (the green apple).  

What a difference and what a lesson.  So the next time you take out a bottle from the fridge and taste it directly, don't be surprised if you are underwhelmed.  Dry white wine, and high quality white wine like this Burgundy, should always be enjoyed at temperatures above fridge (or egad, ice bucket) temps.

Sante!

In my photo essays of Domaines Belleville and Chopin I mentioned that they also run gites and chabre d’hotes; the very quaint and traditional farm houses that private owbers rent out for that extra “local” feel tourists want when on vacation. It seems to be a rather recent trend (last 10 years) as I don’t remember this during earlier visits to Burgundy.

The other day, however, while reading the latest Bougogne Aujourd’hui, I was surprised to come across an advertisement for a gite run by the famous Domaine Anne Gros. Maison d’hotes la Colombiere

Unlike your simple rough-style farm house, this is sleek and modern inside a completely refurbished town house. What’s more is that she offers a complete oenotourism experience: multiple packages allow you to experience harvet time, learning about the vineyards, private tastings, and short courses with the new ecole de vins de bourgogne. Anne Gros has transcended the cloistered independant-thinking Burgundian domaine to become an international destination. Talk about add-on selling! Bravo Domaine Gros, I know where my next Burgundian vacation will be!

I was driving in my (diesel) powered car yesterday when I heard on the radio the result of an amazing experiment. The Isle of Eigg, in the North Sea, and part of northern Scotland, became one of the first islands in the world to derive all of its energy from renewable sources. Read here Not to mention as well that the residents will now have 24 hour electricity. Pretty cool, I say, and a model for other small population, remote places around the world... I can think of a few islands off the coast of Maine (USA) that could get ALL of their energy from wind power.

..as you have seen, the blog will at times stray away from the subject of wine...but here’s an event that calls for some champagne! Sante!

Isle of Eigg, Kildonnan, Highland, UK

Domaine N. Ragot 

Givry, France

A walk through the vineyards and winery at Domaine Ragot. Hosted by Jean-Paul Ragot, produced by Monks Cellar.  (In the state of MA, this wine is imported by Vineyard research Imports)

Pascal Clement, the vineyard manager and winemaker at Domaine Belleville shared with me this recipe. Not only does it go great with his white Burgundies, but ALSO with his reds.

A little history.....Gaston Gerard was a famous chef in Burgundy during the 1920’s and 30’s. In 1931, he helped organize the first food and wine festival of Dijon (Foire Gastronomique). For this inaugural exposition, he created this chicken recipe, which became hugely popular with the great restaurants of France. I hope you enjoy this classic.

Bon Appetite!

Poulet façon Gaston Gérard

1 free-range chicken
1-2 Tablespoons Olive oil
1 medium onion (minced)
1 tsp dried thyme
1 small Bay leaf
1/2 tsp Paprika
3.5 oz of freshly grated gruyère or comte cheese
7 oz of crème fraiche
1 Tablespoon Dijon Mustard
1 bottle dry white wine

Cut the chicken into 8 peices. Heat the oil on medium-high heat in a large dutch oven, until shimmering but not smoking. Brown the chicken pieces each side, until golden.

Add minced onion, paprika, thyme and salt and pepper to taste.

Add enough wine, until the chicken is covered, and the Bay leaf. Bring to a boil then reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, for 30 min.

Remove the chicken pieces, cover with aluminum foil to keep warm. Pass the liquid through a chinois. Return liquid to pan over low heat.

Add the cheese. Remove from heat and mix until smooth

Add mustard and creme fraiche, heat over low while mixing. Once smooth, pour over chicken pieces and serve.

Serve with a rice pilaf.


Bon Appetite!

Over Christmas I had the opportunity to open some older bottles (not the ones above!) from my cellar in Maine (we live in Belgium but 99% of my wine is stored in Maine). With glee and anticipation I uncorked several 95 and 96 red burgs and a couple 2000 white burgs. Unfortunately all but one (out of 7) met expectations, the rest were duds...Ug!

The best bottle was a 2000 Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru "Les Ruchottes" from Dom. Ramonet. It was stellar, bursting with tension and complexity and not quite mature. (A second bottle was horribly corked) But the rest were just not good.

A 96 Savigny-Les-Beaune, 1er Cru, Les Serpentieres (Dom Ecard) was maderized and a second bottle was a bit better but tasting much older than its 11 years. A ‘95 Morey-St-Denis, (Dom F Magnien) was also flat and older than it should have been. The biggest loss was a 96 Nuits-St Georges 1er Cru "Les Cailles" (Dom Chevillon). It too tasted 30 years old.

Was it the cellar, I thought? Very doubtful as the temp ranges from 45 - 65F, but gently over the course of the year. All wines were bought upon release. The Savignys were from the same store and importer, so I'll watch out for that combination in the future, but the Nuits should have been better.

One surprisingly good red bug was a 96 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (Dom Bertagna). It was brimming with life and fruit. Very pure and delicious. A pleasant surprise from a bottle I had had in the cellar for 8+ years but without much prejudice.

Lessons learned? Drink up or buy better domaines...hard to say, but it's probably "drink up". Stay tuned I may change my mind......