The tightly knit group of terroirists, that once included Didier Dagueneau, paid tribute to the master today in an elaborate tasting for the trade. Movers and shakers of the Paris wine trade indulged in consistently high quality wines and the vingerons brought along local pates and cheeses. The roster looked like this:
Philippe Alliet : AOC Chinon
Eric Bordelet : AOC Sydre et Poiré de Normandie-Calvados
Philippe Charlopin : AOC Gevrey-Chambertin
Pierre-Marie et Martine Chermette : AOC Beaujolais Fleurie & Moulin à Vent
François Chidaine : AOC Montlouis & Vouvray
John et Véronique Cochran : AOC Côtes de Bourg
Didier Dagueneau : AOC Blanc Fumé de Pouilly
Pascal Delbeck : AOC Saint Emilion Grand Cru
Paolo de Marchi : Chianti, Italie
Eloi Dürrbach : Trevallon Vin de Pays
Nadi et Charlie Foucault : AOC Saumur-Champigny
Alain Gaillot : AOC Crozes-Hermitage
Y et J.R Hegoburu : AOC Jurançon
Christian et Marc Imbert : AOC Corse-Porte Vecchio
Olivier Jullien : AOC Coteaux du Languedoc
Marc Kreydenweiss : APC Alsace et Costières de Nîmes
Alain Neyroud : Suisse
Marc Pagès : AOC Médoc Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
Christophe Peyrus : AOC Coteaux du Languedoc
Robert et Bernard Plageoles : AOC Gaillac
Jacques Puffeney : AOC Arbois
Thérèse et Michel Riousspeyrous : AOC Irouléguy
Jean-Marc Roulot : AOC Mersault
Corinne et Anselme Selosse : AOC champagne
Aldo Vajra : Barolo, Italie.
What’s not to like when you are being poured Selosse, Chidane, Dagueneau, Roulot, Graillot, etc....What struck me more was the conviviality brought by the winemakers; many brought local pates and cheeses. A huge bloc of Parmasean was at Selosse, as well as the Italian tables, Francois Chidane opened a package of andouille sausage (not my taste but I had some), and the Dagueneau’s had am amazing assortment of tete de veau, pates (organ and otherwise) and saussisons. Very hospitable and professional.
Some tasting impressions:
A Having never tasted the Selosse champagnes before the OV struck me with it’s flirtation with oxidation while the INITIALE (more dossage) was more to my taste. The Roulots were pouring 06 and the Tessons, Charmes and Perrieres were stunners. Long and vibrant. The Dageuneau’s poured Buisson Renard 06 and the 98 Pur Sang. The Buisson showed incredible precision and bite while the Pur Sang was gentle with a sneaky complex finish. The Chidane Montlouis were delicious, but I wonder how far he can take the concept of terroir in the market....can the market really distinguish between 14 different Montlouis cuvees? For the reds, I was amazed by the richness of Alliet’s Chinon. A perfect ripness and balance like these is hard to find in Loire reds. My favorite was a 07 St Joseph by Alain Graillot. Complex and precise it was all leather and ripe red fruits... good length.
