Tuesday, December 16, 2008




The tightly knit group of terroirists, that once included Didier Dagueneau, paid tribute to the master today in an elaborate tasting for the trade. Movers and shakers of the Paris wine trade indulged in consistently high quality wines and the vingerons brought along local pates and cheeses. The roster looked like this:

Philippe Alliet : AOC Chinon 

Eric Bordelet : AOC Sydre et Poiré de Normandie-Calvados 

Philippe Charlopin : AOC Gevrey-Chambertin 

Pierre-Marie et Martine Chermette : AOC Beaujolais Fleurie & Moulin à Vent 

François Chidaine : AOC Montlouis & Vouvray 

John et Véronique Cochran : AOC Côtes de Bourg 

Didier Dagueneau : AOC Blanc Fumé de Pouilly 

Pascal Delbeck : AOC Saint Emilion Grand Cru 

Paolo de Marchi : Chianti, Italie 

Eloi Dürrbach : Trevallon Vin de Pays 

Nadi et Charlie Foucault : AOC Saumur-Champigny 

Alain Gaillot : AOC Crozes-Hermitage 

Y et J.R Hegoburu : AOC Jurançon 

Christian et Marc Imbert : AOC Corse-Porte Vecchio 

Olivier Jullien : AOC Coteaux du Languedoc 

Marc Kreydenweiss : APC Alsace et Costières de Nîmes 

Alain Neyroud : Suisse 
Marc Pagès : AOC Médoc Cru Bourgeois Supérieur 

Christophe Peyrus : AOC Coteaux du Languedoc 

Robert et Bernard Plageoles : AOC Gaillac 

Jacques Puffeney : AOC Arbois 

Thérèse et Michel Riousspeyrous : AOC Irouléguy 

Jean-Marc Roulot : AOC Mersault 

Corinne et Anselme Selosse : AOC champagne 

Aldo Vajra : Barolo, Italie.




What’s not to like when you are being poured Selosse, Chidane, Dagueneau, Roulot, Graillot, etc....What struck me more was the conviviality brought by the winemakers; many brought local pates and cheeses. A huge bloc of Parmasean was at Selosse, as well as the Italian tables, Francois Chidane opened a package of andouille sausage (not my taste but I had some), and the Dagueneau’s had am amazing assortment of tete de veau, pates (organ and otherwise) and saussisons. Very hospitable and professional.

Some tasting impressions:
A Having never tasted the Selosse champagnes before the OV struck me with it’s flirtation with oxidation while the INITIALE (more dossage) was more to my taste. The Roulots were pouring 06 and the Tessons, Charmes and Perrieres were stunners. Long and vibrant. The Dageuneau’s poured Buisson Renard 06 and the 98 Pur Sang. The Buisson showed incredible precision and bite while the Pur Sang was gentle with a sneaky complex finish. The Chidane Montlouis were delicious, but I wonder how far he can take the concept of terroir in the market....can the market really distinguish between 14 different Montlouis cuvees? For the reds, I was amazed by the richness of Alliet’s Chinon. A perfect ripness and balance like these is hard to find in Loire reds. My favorite was a 07 St Joseph by Alain Graillot. Complex and precise it was all leather and ripe red fruits... good length.

No comments: