During my trip to Burgundy for the weekend of "Les Trois Glorieuses", I paid a visit to one of my favorites in all of Burgundy, Domaine M. Lafarge of Volnay. Hi son, Frederick invited us downstairs to taste some newer vintages and I left with a case of treasures. Back home I recently shared with my wife their '04 Bourgogne rouge. At 8 euros, this is a delicious bottle of "Bourgogne". Nothing complicated but everything in place. Lipsmackingly good. Lovely fruit with just a hint of forest floor.

Lafarge is not one for following trends, and I tend to categorize him as a traditionalist. Very little new oak (none in anything under a 1er cru) and his wines full of soaring aromatics. Lots of forest floor and raspberry notes come out of the glass. People more familiar with CA pinot will find his wines too astringent for them and lacking color. But they are missing the point.

The second wine we shared was a bottle of '00 Volnay, "vendenges selectionnee". A cuvee one step up over their Volnay. What started out precise, raspberry and tight, opened after an hour into a broad and complex pinot with forest floor, leather and truffle. Again, the color was more red/orange and transparent, but this belies the power this wine has. Sheer pleasure.