Travel to Tuscan wineries this spring
1 year ago
Sunday, August 02, 2009
Friday, May 01, 2009
Parker on 2008 bordeaux
His notes are starting to come in...It looks like a very good vintage for Pomerol/St Emilion. See more at Thunevin's blog...
His notes are starting to come in...It looks like a very good vintage for Pomerol/St Emilion. See more at Thunevin's blog...
Thursday, April 02, 2009
Groslay 2009
28-29 March were the dates for this year's Groslay tasting. This tasting, in a forgotten town north of Paris invites a couple dozen of organic, small-production, and sometimes avant-garde winemakers. After my visiit to the Vigneron independant (cattle car )tasting in Paris on Friday, this was an intimate affaire. Picnic tables out back welcomed visitors to enjoy the andouille sausage and fresh Normandy Oysters.
One of the avant-garde wineries was Domaine Vergé in Macon. Here, no sulfur at all and organic viticulture. Vin au naturel. 3/4 of the wines were declassified to vin de table because on non-typicity and through our discussion she laughed about the nonsense coming out of the juries that dole out appelation controlees. The wines were all reduced and all very similar in their green apple flavors. Very acidic and green. The sparkling wine was so acrid and effervecent that I could barely keep it in my mouth. Crazy stuff, good to taste, and to learn that sulfer is GOOD!
Visitedwith Domaine Mussy of Pommard and tasted through a horizontal their crus of burgundies in and around Pommard. 2007's. Fruity, mineral and nice tension. Delicious. From Chinon I spent quite a long time with P Lambert, another organic producer (even biodynamic) with an eye-opening range of red chinon...great balance and expressive of their terroirs. Again, very mineral and sappy fruit.
M Lambert invited me for lunch and we shared 2 doz oysters. Very gracious and the atmosphere at lunch was classic french conviviality. On this sunny crisp spring day I soaked it all in.....
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Sunday, February 22, 2009
Reims
RDV in Mesnil sur Oger was missed so we went straight to the gite north of Reims. A beautiful setting, part of a family run champagne house, le Mont d'Hor, partially surrounded by the vines of Veuve Cliquot, in St Thierry. A hamlet with 12 century chapel and monastary that dates to the 5th century, the time of Clovis. Dinner was forgettable in a neighborhood restaurant that pretends to have style and service but that strains with each. Breakfast, then a visit to the cuverie and stockage of Champagne Mont d'Hor. They grow the grapes, press and then age/ferment/assemble at veuve cliquot. Admirable vintage brut but I found the brut NV to be too "worked". The rosé was too soft and sweet for my taste. To Reims for lunch. Lunch at the Café de Palais, steps frm the cathedral. Art deco cafe in the high french style...good service but over priced for the location next to the cathedral... Our neighbors seemed not to be tourists well-healed locals...champagne baron/nesses?
A fabulous visit to the cathedral de Reims. Stunning vaulted ceilings and stained windows...amazing and sad that it was nearly destroyed in WWI. The Chegall windows are beyond words. I think the kids were impressed by the beauty and the history. They all appreciated the story of the French kings being crowned there. Took photos of Clovis, gargoyles, stained windows. Some the the religious figures were still missing their heads, presumably from the revolution. It was as good as advertised. Next to it is the Palais de Tau, also a beauty. Roman vestiges, sacred chalices, reliquaries, royal robes of Charles X and the talisman of Charlemagne (my favorite artifact). You feel the history of the countless French kings that were crowned here.
Reims the town was a disappointment . To be fair significant road work was undergoing, but the buildings that line streets around the cathedral are downright ugly. In fact, the town is an eye-sore. Two world wars had something to do with this and the mish-mash of architecture styles, but the town is unkempt. Perhaps more money should be spent on sprucing up the streets, to reflect the splendor of the cathedral? Is the town resting on the laurels of the cathedral and the wines??? It's a shame that the town with the cathedral of equal significance to Westminster Abbey is in such poor shape. Bordeaux knows how to show off it's riches that have come from their wines.
As for the Champagne houses, I saw Pommery and Veuve Cliquot, neither of which stood out as beacons of style or taste. Perhaps some of their profits could be put to better use?? I'm sure Reims would appreciate it.
Traveling south, through the Montagne de Reims, you reach Epernay: the cradle of Champagne. Here is where the true capital of Champagne rests...but again, the town is just awful to look at. A casualty of the wars to be sure but the stark German modernism and 19th century ornate buildings is just not helping with the feel of somberness. Here you find more Champagne houses, but they too spend more money on their marketing than attempting to make their town, or their visitor centers eye-pleasing. It became obvious that the Champagne houses ARE resting on their laurels, and they they really don't care what their towns look like: people will by their over-priced oceans of manufactured alcoholic beverages just because of the name.
The drive down the south side of the Montagne de Reims to Epernay is a sight to see, even in the fog, with the rolling hills covered with vines. Passing Epernay towards the cote des blancs, the sea of vineyards continues. Down here there is a MUCH greater vineyard presence than north of Reims. Our destination is Mesnil sur Oger, the home of the famous chardonnay vineyard, Le Clos du Mesnil (another great vineyard planted by a monastery). It's Sunday, so as to be expected all the shutters are closed and there is not much activity. We enter the hamlet and drive by Pierre Moncuit, JL Vergnon, and Le Mesnil. We consider having lunch at "Le Mesnil" but it doesn't look very welcoming to a family of 5.....The travel guide had mentioned that there was a children's menu, but that is no longer the case. The village is filled with small independent champagne producers. The kind that presumably spend more money on what is in the bottle than outside. Felt a bit like Meursault where they know they're famous and they guard it ferociously. A walled-in community. We circled the walled vineyard "Le Clos du Mesnil" and then departed north back to Epernay.
On the way back to Paris, we skirt along the southern edge of the Montagne de Reims and the Bois du Rois, we get our eyeful of rolling vineyards. We turn North and climb the hill to the town of Chatillon su Marne, and as you make the climb you can see the gigantic statue (100 ft tall) of Pope Urban II, (the pope that started the 1st Crusade). Now this is a beautiful hamlet. The views from it over the valley from 400 feet altitude are worth the visit alone, if the roman ruins, the 10th century fort, and the stone houses don't do it for you. We stop for a bite...a good 2-hour lunch, as one should do in France on a Sunday....and then continue home.
RDV in Mesnil sur Oger was missed so we went straight to the gite north of Reims. A beautiful setting, part of a family run champagne house, le Mont d'Hor, partially surrounded by the vines of Veuve Cliquot, in St Thierry. A hamlet with 12 century chapel and monastary that dates to the 5th century, the time of Clovis. Dinner was forgettable in a neighborhood restaurant that pretends to have style and service but that strains with each. Breakfast, then a visit to the cuverie and stockage of Champagne Mont d'Hor. They grow the grapes, press and then age/ferment/assemble at veuve cliquot. Admirable vintage brut but I found the brut NV to be too "worked". The rosé was too soft and sweet for my taste. To Reims for lunch. Lunch at the Café de Palais, steps frm the cathedral. Art deco cafe in the high french style...good service but over priced for the location next to the cathedral... Our neighbors seemed not to be tourists well-healed locals...champagne baron/nesses?
A fabulous visit to the cathedral de Reims. Stunning vaulted ceilings and stained windows...amazing and sad that it was nearly destroyed in WWI. The Chegall windows are beyond words. I think the kids were impressed by the beauty and the history. They all appreciated the story of the French kings being crowned there. Took photos of Clovis, gargoyles, stained windows. Some the the religious figures were still missing their heads, presumably from the revolution. It was as good as advertised. Next to it is the Palais de Tau, also a beauty. Roman vestiges, sacred chalices, reliquaries, royal robes of Charles X and the talisman of Charlemagne (my favorite artifact). You feel the history of the countless French kings that were crowned here.
Reims the town was a disappointment . To be fair significant road work was undergoing, but the buildings that line streets around the cathedral are downright ugly. In fact, the town is an eye-sore. Two world wars had something to do with this and the mish-mash of architecture styles, but the town is unkempt. Perhaps more money should be spent on sprucing up the streets, to reflect the splendor of the cathedral? Is the town resting on the laurels of the cathedral and the wines??? It's a shame that the town with the cathedral of equal significance to Westminster Abbey is in such poor shape. Bordeaux knows how to show off it's riches that have come from their wines.
As for the Champagne houses, I saw Pommery and Veuve Cliquot, neither of which stood out as beacons of style or taste. Perhaps some of their profits could be put to better use?? I'm sure Reims would appreciate it.
Traveling south, through the Montagne de Reims, you reach Epernay: the cradle of Champagne. Here is where the true capital of Champagne rests...but again, the town is just awful to look at. A casualty of the wars to be sure but the stark German modernism and 19th century ornate buildings is just not helping with the feel of somberness. Here you find more Champagne houses, but they too spend more money on their marketing than attempting to make their town, or their visitor centers eye-pleasing. It became obvious that the Champagne houses ARE resting on their laurels, and they they really don't care what their towns look like: people will by their over-priced oceans of manufactured alcoholic beverages just because of the name.
The drive down the south side of the Montagne de Reims to Epernay is a sight to see, even in the fog, with the rolling hills covered with vines. Passing Epernay towards the cote des blancs, the sea of vineyards continues. Down here there is a MUCH greater vineyard presence than north of Reims. Our destination is Mesnil sur Oger, the home of the famous chardonnay vineyard, Le Clos du Mesnil (another great vineyard planted by a monastery). It's Sunday, so as to be expected all the shutters are closed and there is not much activity. We enter the hamlet and drive by Pierre Moncuit, JL Vergnon, and Le Mesnil. We consider having lunch at "Le Mesnil" but it doesn't look very welcoming to a family of 5.....The travel guide had mentioned that there was a children's menu, but that is no longer the case. The village is filled with small independent champagne producers. The kind that presumably spend more money on what is in the bottle than outside. Felt a bit like Meursault where they know they're famous and they guard it ferociously. A walled-in community. We circled the walled vineyard "Le Clos du Mesnil" and then departed north back to Epernay.
On the way back to Paris, we skirt along the southern edge of the Montagne de Reims and the Bois du Rois, we get our eyeful of rolling vineyards. We turn North and climb the hill to the town of Chatillon su Marne, and as you make the climb you can see the gigantic statue (100 ft tall) of Pope Urban II, (the pope that started the 1st Crusade). Now this is a beautiful hamlet. The views from it over the valley from 400 feet altitude are worth the visit alone, if the roman ruins, the 10th century fort, and the stone houses don't do it for you. We stop for a bite...a good 2-hour lunch, as one should do in France on a Sunday....and then continue home.
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Paris....the place to be for Valentine's
friday the 13th, after a morning of visiting a couple of cavistes and then lunch at a neighborhood bistrot, in the 18th, I headed to the Champs-Elysées to buy my sweetie a Valentine's gift...I offered her flowers on the 12th but it was to difficukt to resist the adorable little box of macarons from Laduree mmmm, so delicate and sweet. amazing patisserie from the inventors of the macaron...and where better to buy it than intheir flagship store on the Champs Elysées???
Afterward, just before arriving in Rueil-Malmaison by the RER, I got a SMS from my friend and winemaker Jean-Pierre Vanel, of Domaine Lacroix-Vanel. He wrote that he got a good write up, and his wine was selected, as the wine of the month in the 13 feb edition of Libération....Bravo Jean-Pierre.
friday the 13th, after a morning of visiting a couple of cavistes and then lunch at a neighborhood bistrot, in the 18th, I headed to the Champs-Elysées to buy my sweetie a Valentine's gift...I offered her flowers on the 12th but it was to difficukt to resist the adorable little box of macarons from Laduree mmmm, so delicate and sweet. amazing patisserie from the inventors of the macaron...and where better to buy it than intheir flagship store on the Champs Elysées???
Afterward, just before arriving in Rueil-Malmaison by the RER, I got a SMS from my friend and winemaker Jean-Pierre Vanel, of Domaine Lacroix-Vanel. He wrote that he got a good write up, and his wine was selected, as the wine of the month in the 13 feb edition of Libération....Bravo Jean-Pierre.
Sunday, February 01, 2009
Just back from Angers and the tasting of the winemakers' fraternity 'Renaissance des AOC". Super high quality producers like Trapet, Zind-Hunbrecht, Chidane, Mosse, etc.
I was unimpressed with Angers when I arrived, but after eating in a less than interesting Italian resto, I discovered a little bohemian quater with cinema that plays original version films (I saw Walkyrie) and a bunch of interesting restos (mexican, latino, sushi, and a very hip bar a vins (le cercle rouge). A nice town to visit with the family thanks to the super-cool 13h century chateau and the small-town ambiance.
I was unimpressed with Angers when I arrived, but after eating in a less than interesting Italian resto, I discovered a little bohemian quater with cinema that plays original version films (I saw Walkyrie) and a bunch of interesting restos (mexican, latino, sushi, and a very hip bar a vins (le cercle rouge). A nice town to visit with the family thanks to the super-cool 13h century chateau and the small-town ambiance.
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